Posted: 8/17/11
Here are a few tips for upgrading the steering on your Wraith. The stock Wraith steering components are pretty stout right out of the box. But, upgrading to aluminum components will give you a little extra piece of mind when it comes to sweating breakage while out on the trail. Here's a quick "how to" for upgrading your Wraith's steering set-up to aluminum components.A picture of the new parts needed.
Where's the beef? All the components needed removed from their packaging. You will only need 8 of the 10 screws in part's bag AXA115. Some of the self tapping plastic screws will no longer be needed.
Start by removing the wheels and tires from the front axle.
Loosen the M3 set screw in the drive hex, then remove it and the drive pin from the stub axle.
Next remove the 2 screws holding the steer arm on the knuckle.
Using a 2mm driver, remove the 2 screws that hold the knuckle on the C-hub.
Now remove the 2 self-tapping screws that hold the C-hub on the axle housing.
Slide the new aluminum C-hub into place and attach using the existing hardware.
Remove the bearings and stub shaft from the old plastic knuckle, and install them into the new aluminum knuckle.
After installing the steel kingpin sleeves into the knuckle, slide the knuckle into place on the C-hub and tighten it down using the new M3x10mm button head screws. Make sure the knuckles are oriented properly, and are attached to the proper side of the axle housing. And as with the stock knuckles, the double captured arms aren't used.
Use two more of the new M3X10 screws to re-attach the steering arm to the knuckle. If you are running the stock wheels, you can add some small spacers under the knuckle steer arm in order to take a little of the stock "toe in" out. If you are running our XR10 beadlock wheels, there isn't much room for this mod.
Last thing we need to do for this side in re-install the cross pin and drive hex.
Now repeat the above steps for the opposite side on the front axle.
And you're done, time to go hit the local rock pile!!
